Pipefish Care Guide | Appearance, Types and Diet

Last updated on December 24th, 2022 at 11:06 am

Generally, fish will look at the store to take an unexpected transformation inside days or long stretches of being brought into the tank.

Indeed, even with their standing for being challenging to keep, there are numerous motivations to need them.


Novices, be careful. Pipefish are cute and unassuming fish, yet they can be quite challenging to keep in an aquarium. They are mostly wild gotten (however, some diversion raisers have seen some achievement, and there is the trust that this may change later on).

Because of their requirement for regular feedings and delicate insusceptible frameworks, they are in danger of both malnourishment and bacterial contaminations welcomed on by the pressure catch and transport.

For one, they come in numerous tones and with their exceptional mouths and look, and they are only an intriguing visual component to add to your tank. They will also be genuinely dynamic, floating along in the current in the tank or staying near topsy turvy in caverns and vegetation.

The two most common types of Pipefish in the aquarium exchange are dragon-faced and flagtail. Both arrive in an assortment of species, and there are a few contrasts in care and similarity between the two types.

Pipefish care and Aquarium


Logical name and common names

Pipefish are individuals from the Syngnathidae family. The other individual from the family is the seahorse. The two most common varieties in fish stores are dragon faced (Corythoichthys sp.) and flagtail (Doryrhamphus sp. what’s more, Dunckerocampus sp).

Banded Pipefish – Doryrhamphus Pessuliferus

Common varieties of dragon faced Pipefish incorporate Messmate (Corythoichthys haematopterus), Network Dragon face (Corythoichthys flavofasciatus) and Scribbled Dragon face (Corythoichthys installs).

Common varieties of Dunckerocampus incorporate Yellow Banded Pipefish (Dunckerocampus pessuliferus) and Multibar (Dunckerocampus multiannulatus).

Characteristic living space

Pipefish originate from the jungle and subtropic districts of most of the world’s seas. Most are marine, with a couple of species being freshwater just and others living joyfully in salty waters. Their traditional territory comprises essentially of coral reefs and seagrasses.

Pipefish care and Aquarium

Pipefish (in the same way as other wild-got aquarium examples) might be challenging to care for in an aquarium and struggle to change from eating live food to a frozen eating regimen.

Numerous sources state they can be weaned onto frozen food. Yet, there are also many disappointments, which is a valid justification to utilize an alert before getting one of these species.

Flagtails are accounted for to be bound to figure out how to take frozen food.

For dragon faced, it is more uncertain than they will adjust to frozen foods, so on the off chance that you intend to bring one into your home, you should be prepared to focus on a full eating routine of live foods.

Because of their size, shape, and reinforced appearance, it isn’t easy to know whether your pipefish care has been adequate.

An individual could be malnourished, and it is difficult to see until the issue is crazy.

Accordingly, it is critical to appropriately take care of them and watch their dietary patterns to guarantee they are getting enough nourishment.

Brine shrimp are a sensibly simple-to-make live food hotspot for these saltwater fish.

Dragonfaced will incline toward newly incubated brine shrimp, while flagtails will be happier with grown-ups.

It is risky to accept that your Aquarium is delivering enough food naturally for your fish.

Raising your copepods is a suitable alternative. Also, keeping an assortment of imitating tidy up team species can help add “food” to your tank.

Pipefish will cheerfully nibble on shrimp, crab, snail, and worm hatchling drifting around in the tank.

Safe frozen alternatives incorporate frozen Mysis and frozen cyclops-eeze. Frozen food should be given once per day if you can ween the fish over.

Their fussy dietary patterns combined with the fact that it is so natural to keep them unintentionally is one of the principal reasons they are considered “master just” fish by numerous specialists. Their food prerequisites influence most of the parts of their care.

Pipefish Care Guide


Among the 200 types of Pipefish, the most common types are as per the following:

Banded Pipefish

This sort of Pipefish loves to live two by two; in any case, they are pretty frail and don’t do well in imprisonment. They require consistent consideration. They are also the most common type of Pipefish.

Blue-striped Pipefish

They are commonly not the same as different types of Pipefish because they display forcefulness attributes that aren’t typically found in a Pipefish. They are also similarly more modest in size, developing to a length of 3″. However, that is the thing that makes them more dynamic and quicker than other Pipefish.

Dragon-face Pipefish

The Dragon-face Pipefish will not eat frozen food, which makes it difficult to pet. On the other hand, they love to live in gatherings, and when they see themselves floating separated from their amigos, they rapidly append themselves to their accomplice’s side.

The life expectancy of Pipefish

Dissimilar to most little aquarium fish, they have a long life expectancy. In the wild, they live as long as 10 years. Even though they don’t flourish well in an engineered climate like that of an aquarium, whenever kept stable, they can, at any rate, live as long as five years.

Diet of Pipefish

Pipefish are carnivores in nature. In the wild, they feed upon the accompanying:

  • Little Insects
  • Microscopic fish
  • Amphipods
  • Copepods
  • Shellfish
  • Worms
  • Phantom Shrimp
  • Brine Shrimp
  • Little Crabs
  • Snails
  • Little Fish

It is encouraged that their eating regimen in an aquarium should also mirror a mix of these foods.

Because of their short stomach-related plot, they can’t eat a massive food segment at a time. They feed less amount of food at regular spans.

Even though you can take care of frozen food, it is prescribed that you occasionally give Pipefishe a portion of live food. It also abandons saying that frozen food must be defrosted appropriately before taking care of them.

It would help if you allowed them to change and progress to frozen food. One can’t, out of nowhere, adjust to set food in a day or two. So if you don’t approach live food every day, keep taking care of frozen food alongside live food and steadily move to frozen food.

Their bodies are generally worked to support exceptionally unsaturated fats because they are saltwater fish. On the off chance that you feed them freshwater living beings, they will experience the ill effects of an absence of these acids.

Pipefishes are quick eaters and benefit from their food by sucking food quickly into their mouth. In any case, it should be noticed that they have a little mouth opening. In this manner, the size of the food, mainly frozen food, should be short. You can utilize a cheddar grater to make the size of your frozen food a little.

Behavior in the tank

A settled tank with loads of living stone and a sound microfauna populace is a base prerequisite for your Pipefish.

Thirty gallons of saltwater for each individual is the least suggested tank-size is suggested.

Because they are helpless swimmers, they need a tank with delicate flows to get around on. Fantails Pipefishe are viewed as the best of the Pipefish concerning swimming because of their colossal fantail. However, they are still helpless before the current.

They are bashful and require a ton of spots to stow away. Because they are acceptable at disguise and hang out topsy turvy in the tank with bunches of seagrasses impersonating their environmental factors, their requirement for concealing spaces can also cause a few issues with siphons and floods.

It’s ideal for covering each opening in the tank; however, if one disappears, checking the sump and flood is consistently a decent spot to begin.

Pipefish Corythoichthys Compatibility

Some similar decisions are valid for all Pipefish. When all is said, they are best kept in a species tank of Pipefish and seahorses. Their sluggish development makes them by and largely inconsistent with quicker moving and forceful fish.

They are not viable with fish that eat very similar things either because they will get whatever food is extra in the tank; it will probably not continue them.

Tank similarity can vary incredibly between species of Pipefish. In any case, it appears that species in the pipefish class have an authoritative measure of hatred and merely get more focused as they get more modest.

The most forceful species of Pipefish are the minuscule blue stripe. At only three creeps long, they are also the most liable to battle until the very end. Their size and speed make them difficult to catch and separate.

Keeping two blue stripes is possibly suggested on the off chance that they are of the other gender and comparable in size (females have been known to execute guys that they consider too little to even think about mating with).

The Janss pipefish is marginally more laid back however is even more inclined to hate, including interspecies. They are not a decent blend in with others, especially yellow-banded and multibar, and again should just be kept in rearing pairs.red Pipefish

Yellow banded and multibar Pipefish have been accounted for to have the option to live in gatherings of at least 2 in enormous enough tanks, yet besides have an intermittent vicious upheaval.

Separating the battles and migrating the wrongdoers is more straightforward for this situation. However, a misfortune is as yet conceivable from their hostility and something to keep an eye out for.

Dragonfaced Pipefish of numerous types are more significant and will, in general, be more compliant. They can be kept two by two or gatherings effortlessly as long as the food gracefully will support them.

Generation and spread

A few sorts of PipeFish can be effortlessly sexed while others are more diligently and sometimes almost difficult to differentiate.

Because of their inclination to cover up and how a great deal of their characterizing sex attributes are on their guts, moving them into little example tanks to view their undersides (and endeavouring to photo them in their bigger tank) is frequently fundamental.

Similarity issues can make knowing the sex of your fantail pipefish especially vital, and checking before you leave the fish store is unquestionably recommended.

To the extent reproducing Pipefish goes, it is essential to recollect that, like their seahorse cousins, the male fish is the one that keeps the eggs. The female will lay her eggs into the pocket on his underside, and he will clutch them until they incubate.

One online reproducer (Jim Welsh) has had achievement rearing blue stripes in imprisonment in any event. His framework included getting the fry when they incubated and raising them on live copepods and other tiny fish until they were developed entirely before compelling them to change to frozen food.

Jim Welsh’s prosperity came to a limited extent because a grasp of bluestripe eggs appear to incubate simultaneously.

His different tests were with Redstripe (which are difficult for specialists to grasp and not in any case referenced in this article). He saw that their eggs don’t all bring forth simultaneously, making the fry harder to get reliably.

Generation and spread of pipefish


Pipefish are challenging to keep in an aquarium setting. They frequently show up not so good and are challenging to bring back from the edge.

In any case, if you have the space to commit to a species tank, a readiness to locate the correct food flexibly, and a sharp eye for spotting issues that may emerge, these brilliant snake-like fish, with their unmistakable snoots and complete reach practices, could make a beguiling expansion to your aquarium leisure activity.

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